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Heinkel He 111 in 1/48 scale


Proud Kraut
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Proud Kraut

Liquid mask is applied with a brush. It´s a fluid latex/water mix that can be brushed away very easily after the paint job is done.

 

He50.jpg

 

As you can see the fluid becomes clear when drying.

 

He51.jpg

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I think I'll get some of that liquid mask. I'm currently working on & off on a Revell 1/72 Arado Ar196 that I did in the prescibed colours for the Luftwaffe early war 'Splinter' camouflage (RLM72 and RLM73 from Vallejo) but I didn't like the outcome at all, it looked way too dark so I've stripped it again. I then read somewhere that to compensate for the small scale you need to add 33% white so that what I'll do next when I fixed or replaced my airbrush that has some issues.

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Proud Kraut

I think I'll get some of that liquid mask. I'm currently working on & off on a Revell 1/72 Arado Ar196 that I did in the prescibed colours for the Luftwaffe early war 'Splinter' camouflage (RLM72 and RLM73 from Vallejo) but I didn't like the outcome at all, it looked way too dark so I've stripped it again. I then read somewhere that to compensate for the small scale you need to add 33% white so that what I'll do next when I fixed or replaced my airbrush that has some issues.

 

That´s why I choosed the 1/48 scale for this project. I just started with modeling planes and I can´t imagine how to airbrush proper camo schemes on a small bird like the 1/72 Arado without further practice.

 

Sounds like a very good idea to add white to the very dark RLM (RLM = Reichsluftfahrtministerium / Ministry of Aviation 1933-45) colors. Did you take any pics of the Arado befor you stripped it? Would love to see them.

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Proud Kraut

While we´re one it I would like to talk a little bit about airbrushing now. Maybe there are some modelers out there who didn´t try airbrushing for different reasons yet. The next posts are especially for you! So what did I do? I bought exactly the same "Professional Airbrush Set" (which is in fact a starter set) that I bought several years ago when I started using airbrush. The whole set with "double action" spray gun and 3 different (0,2, 0,3 and 0,5 mm) nozzle/needle sets was about US$ 30.

 

He55.jpg

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Proud Kraut

The next thing you need is a compressor. Air pressure should be adjustable (we do need an air pressure of 1,5 - 1,7 bar for airbrushing) and it should have a water separator. I bought mine for about US$ 50 some years ago.

 

He55_1.jpg

 

 

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Proud Kraut

So that´s my airbrush workstation. Base, holder for the spray gun, water, airbrush cleaner, small brushes, gloves and a cloth, that´s it.

 

He56_1.jpg

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Proud Kraut

A turnable base for the kit is very usefull. They are availabe online for airbrushing especially, mine is self-built.

 

He60.jpg

 

He61.jpg

 

 

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Colors, I`m using acrylics from Vallejo, MIG or Tamiya. Acrylics can be mixed with water and airbrushed very easily. They dry very very fast. Once the are dry, they are water-resistant. For the bottom of the Heinkel I´m using Vallejo light blue "Air" color (RLM 65). I add a few drops airbrush thinner. The airbrush color mix should have the texture of milk

 

He56_3.jpg

 

He57.jpg

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Here we go. This airbrush spray gun was never used before. It works perfectly. I`m using the 0,3 mm nozzle/needle set applying several thin layers of color keeping a distance of about 10 cm to the kit.

OF COURSE if you are using an airbrush the first time I recommend to start practice with paper or an old kit etc.

 

He58.jpg

 

He59.jpg

 

 

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After you have finished airbrushing you should clean your spray gun AT ONCE, because, as mentioned before, acrylics dry very fast. I`m using airbrush cleaner, Q-tips and very small brushes.

 

He62_1.jpg

 

First spray all color off the gun.

 

He62.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Mono-color areas tend to look monotonous and unrealistic. I would like to add one more airbrush technique totay - shading. The idea is to airbrush panel lines etc. with a slightly darker color to highlight larger areas of the surface. So I´m using the 0,2 mm nozzle/needle set with the gun. I also use the same light blue color and add some drops brown color.

 

He68.jpg

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You can also pre-shade these panel lines after applying the primer. In this case I`m shading the panel lines afterwards.

 

He69.jpg

 

He70.jpg

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If something goes wrong you can correct the mistake easily. Just airbrush the larger areas with the original light blue color again. Shading is one of the effects you can achieve with an airbrush very easily. That´s it for today, thanks for looking.

 

He71.jpg

 

He73.jpg

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Unfortunately I didn't make any pics of the Arado yet but I'll do a few from now on.

 

I have a simple airbrush with a simple compressor, but I have been looking around for an adjustable valve and water separator for it already. At the moment I can't get a nice, continues stream of paint from it, it splatters a lot so I let the whole thing in parts soak in an ammonia solution, I'll see if that worked. I always cleaned it with the Vallejo cleaner after use but maybe I just need to upgrade to an airbrush from one of the better known brands such as Badger or Iwata.

 

I would just like to add that not all acrylic paints can be thinned with water; Vallejo is water-based indeed but for Tamiya paints for instance you need to use alcohol. All brands sell their own thinners that will always work for them.

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Proud Kraut

@ warguy & Manny: Thank you both!

 

@ earlymb: you´re absolute right. E.g. Tamiya acrylics need a special thinner. Concerning your spray gun I know what you are talking about. I bought a more expensive Harder & Steeback gun some years ago and have exactly the same problems you mentioned. Will try that ammonia solution as well, good hint!

 

He74.jpg

 

Not much progress today. Some masking and the outer bottom of the wings received their yellow markings.

 

He75.jpg

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