I recently got an Arisaka bayonet with a beautiful blade but rather rusty elsewhere, especially on the scabbard and pommel.

 

I cleaned it with a technique I've used dozens of time to remove active rust without harming the underlying surface.

 

I liken it to wet sanding during varnishing, using a nylon pad and WD-40 to keep everything soaking wet. I also use brass brushes including rotory brushes in a Dremel-stype tool. This is not a process that shines your blade: It's very low impact and I've found that the nylon and brass only removes the loose rust. Never once has anything happened where I said "Oops!" .

 

But - as happened with the bayonet shown in this video - I have often found surprises hidden behind the rust.

 

Nice Job.

 

I use "Break-Free" CLP, Cleaner Lubricant and Preservative, gun cleaner.  It was designed for firearms, so I've always assumed it's safe for my blades. 

 

The great thing about break-free is, just apply a nice heavy coat and let the item sit. After a day or two, most of the dirt and rust will just wipe away from the item.  Then, just a nylon brush, brass brush and rifle cleaning patches.  When I complete the cleaning, I usually put a light coat of break-free on the blade. 

On 4/27/2019 at 8:39 PM, Bob Hudson said:

I recently got an Arisaka bayonet with a beautiful blade but rather rusty elsewhere, especially on the scabbard and pommel.

 

I cleaned it with a technique I've used dozens of time to remove active rust without harming the underlying surface.

 

I liken it to wet sanding during varnishing, using a nylon pad and WD-40 to keep everything soaking wet. I also use brass brushes including rotory brushes in a Dremel-stype tool. This is not a process that shines your blade: It's very low impact and I've found that the nylon and brass only removes the loose rust. Never once has anything happened where I said "Oops!" .

 

But - as happened with the bayonet shown in this video - I have often found surprises hidden behind the rust.

 

 

Love your video Bob!!